Complete Process of Producing High-Quality Fabric from Start to Finish
The process of manufacturing high-quality fabric consists of several key stages, each playing a crucial role in determining the final product’s quality. Below, we provide a detailed explanation of the fabric production steps, whether in circular or flat weaving.
1. Selection and Preparation of Raw Materials
Fiber Selection
The choice of raw materials depends on the type of fabric and its intended application. These materials include natural fibers such as cotton, linen, and wool, as well as synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and viscose. The quality of the selected fibers is a critical factor in determining the final fabric quality. Depending on the intended use of the fabric (e.g., upholstery, curtains, or other textile products), the decision between circular or flat weaving may vary. Choosing high-quality fibers is essential, as they form the foundation for all subsequent production stages.
Natural Fibers
To illustrate, we examine the essential requirements and preparation steps for cotton fibers:
Cotton can grow in almost any well-drained soil. However, for high yields, sandy loam soils with deep drainage, adequate clay content, sufficient organic matter, and moderate concentrations of nitrogen and phosphorus are ideal. The highest yields are typically achieved in loamy soils rich in calcium carbonate. A slight slope is generally beneficial for water drainage.
Field Preparation and Planting
Field preparation begins in autumn (after harvesting) with deep plowing to a depth of approximately 14 inches (35 cm). This process buries plant residues, improving soil texture. In late winter (depending on the region), weeds are removed, and the field is plowed again to make the soil suitable for cotton seed planting.
Cotton seeds are one of the most critical factors for achieving good yields. Only certified seeds should be used, and seeds older than two years should be avoided. In regions with insufficient winter rainfall, farmers irrigate fields well before planting. Generally, no irrigation is done between planting and flowering. However, once flowering begins, irrigation is required every 5–7 days, depending on environmental factors.
Approximately 140 days after planting (or 45 days after boll formation), the cotton bolls naturally open and begin drying. During this period (around late summer), many farmers reduce or stop irrigation to facilitate the drying process. While drip irrigation is the preferred method for cotton fields, other techniques like flood irrigation and center pivot irrigation are also used.
Challenges in Cotton Cultivation
One major challenge in cotton farming is unpredictable rainfall. There is no certainty about whether the right amount of rain will occur at the right time during the growing season. Drought periods can occur at any stage of plant growth, with varying durations and intensities. As a result, non-irrigated yields can fluctuate significantly from year to year. Irrigation can mitigate these risks, ensuring stable year-to-year yields and enabling financial planning for farmers.
Cotton plants are highly sensitive to weeds, which compete aggressively for water, sunlight, and nutrients. Therefore, an effective weed control strategy is essential. The method used varies significantly across different countries, climates, legal frameworks, and farming techniques. In the first 60 days after planting, even a small number of weeds can negatively impact plant growth and fiber yield.
Shallow plowing between planting rows not only removes newly developed weeds but also improves soil aeration. In areas where broad-spectrum herbicides are not used, farmers plow once or twice a month during the growing season, with a final plowing after flowering (June–July in most U.S. regions). Many experienced farmers also plant wheat or barley immediately after cotton harvesting to minimize weed growth.
Cotton Harvesting
Harvesting occurs in autumn. Immediately after harvesting, the plants are removed so that new seeds can be planted in the empty soil for the next growing season. In most U.S. regions, cotton is planted between March and May and harvested between August and October. In Australia, planting takes place between September and November, with harvesting occurring from March to May. 5.5 to 6.5 months after planting, the cotton is usually ready for harvest. Determining the exact harvesting time requires years of experience. In most U.S. regions, harvesting occurs in September–October using mechanized cotton pickers.
Polyester Fibers
Polyester fiber production involves forcing molten polymer through spinneret plates under high pressure. The extruded polymer is then exposed to cold air, forming fibers that are gathered into bundles. Subsequent stretching, crimping, and heat treatment align the molecular structure and stabilize the fibers. The fibers are then cut to the desired staple length and baled.
Technical Specifications of Polyester Fibers
Polyester fibers are synthetic fibers produced from PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate). Depending on molecular structure and polymer arrangement, they can be categorized into different types. Single-component polyester fibers are made from a single type of polymer. These fibers, derived from PET, are known for their durability and strength, making them suitable for clothing, textiles, and bedding products. Polyester is a strong fiber resistant to heavy and continuous movements. Its hydrophobic properties make it ideal for wet or humid environments.
Due to their fine denier, these fibers are often blended with synthetic cotton fibers in yarn and textile manufacturing. They undergo antibacterial treatments during production, making them highly suitable for apparel manufacturing.
Single-Stage Polyester Fiber Production Technology
This method is typically used for thicker fibers that require less precision. It involves fewer production stages, reducing equipment size and energy consumption.
Recycled PET can be used in combination with virgin polyester chips to reduce raw material costs. The proportion of recycled PET depends on the final product type—the thicker the fiber, the higher the percentage of recycled PET used.
Since polyester is moisture-sensitive, the production process involves crystallization and drying. Raw PET chips contain 500–600 ppm moisture, which must be reduced to below 35 ppm before processing. Excess moisture can cause hydrolysis during extrusion, leading to filament breakage and reduced spinning efficiency.
After drying, PET chips are fed into an extruder, where they are melted and pressurized for filtration and transfer. Metering pumps feed the polymer melt into spin packs, which filter and uniformly distribute the polymer before extruding it through the spinneret to form fibers.
As the fibers exit the spinneret, they are cooled and solidified by quench air. Take-up rollers provide the necessary tension to pull the fibers. The fibers are then coated with an oil-and-water finish to reduce friction, minimize static electricity, and prevent sticking. They are then sent to the drawing section.
Since freshly spun fibers lack sufficient orientation, they undergo heat and mechanical stretching to align molecular structures. After stretching, the fibers are crimped and passed through a heat-setting oven to stabilize properties such as elongation, denier, dye uptake, and crimp retention. Finally, the fibers are cut and baled.
Two-Stage Polyester Fiber Production Technology
For fine fibers with highly controlled physical properties, a single-stage process is insufficient, and recycled PET cannot be used. These fibers are produced using a two-stage process.
In this method, the spinning process is similar to the single-stage process, but after spinning, the fibers are temporarily stored in cans before undergoing further stretching.
Unlike the single-stage method, where stretching occurs in one step, the two-stage method uses three stretching steps with ratios of 2.2, 1.3, and 1.2 to prevent breakage and ensure precise fiber thickness. The final stretching stage occurs in a heat-setting oven before cutting and baling.
Fine polyester fibers are typically cut to 32 or 38 mm lengths. This method also allows for the production of microfibers with fineness ranging from 1.0 to 0.8 dtex.
2. Cleaning and Preparing the Fibers
The fibers are cleaned from impurities, dust, and grease. This stage includes washing, drying, and carding to ensure the fibers are ready for spinning.
3. Converting Fibers into Yarn
Carding
The cleaned fibers are placed in carding machines, where they are evenly arranged and aligned. Carding helps separate remaining impurities, aligns the fibers, and transforms them into thick slivers known as rovings.
Spinning
The aligned fibers are spun into yarn. The precision of drafting and twisting in this stage significantly impacts the final fabric’s durability and uniformity.
Ring Spinning
Ring spinning is the oldest and most widely used spinning technique in the textile industry. The fibers, in the form of slivers or rovings, enter the ring spinning machine, where they undergo drafting to reduce thickness before being twisted and wound onto a bobbin.
In this method, the spindle and traveler work together to control yarn formation. The spindle rotates at high speed while the traveler moves more slowly, ensuring the yarn is wound uniformly. The up-and-down motion of the traveler shapes the yarn package into a cone or bobbin.
Ring spinning enables the production of a wide range of yarn types, from fine to coarse yarns, making it a versatile and essential technique in fabric manufacturing.
4. Selecting the Fabric Weaving Method
Plain Weaving (Flat Weaving)
In plain weaving, the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads interlace in a structured pattern. This technique creates non-stretch fabrics, making it suitable for structured clothing that requires precise sizing rather than stretchable properties.
Circular Weaving (Tubular Fabric)
In circular weaving, the threads are interwoven in a tubular structure. This method is commonly used for cotton-based fabrics and requires specialized circular knitting machines. These machines have a cylindrical design, allowing the yarns to be knitted in a continuous loop, which is why the resulting fabric is more elastic and comfortable for garments like T-shirts and sportswear.
5. Weaving, Pre-Treatment, and Finishing
Machine Setup
Weaving machines (either flat weaving or circular weaving) are adjusted based on yarn thickness and fiber type.
Weaving Process
The warp and weft threads are interwoven using automated or semi-automated looms to form the fabric.
Pre-Treatment
The woven fabric undergoes quality inspection to identify imperfections or inconsistencies, which are corrected before further processing.
Dyeing and Fixation
Dyeing can be done at the yarn stage or after the fabric is woven. Various dyeing techniques are used depending on the fiber type and application, including digital printing, silk-screen printing, and sublimation printing. The dye is then fixed to ensure wash and light resistance.
Drying and Finalizing
The dyed fabric is dried using industrial dryers or heat tunnels to remove excess moisture and prepare it for use.
Quality Inspection
The final fabric undergoes a thorough quality check for durability, consistency, and defects. High-end manufacturers invest in automated inspection systems to ensure fiber alignment, fabric structure, and absence of foreign materials in premium fabrics.
6. Packaging and Distribution
Once approved, the fabric is packaged in rolls or cut pieces before distribution. The packaging methods include:
1. Open Fabric Rolls
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Used for wide woven fabrics
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Rolled around a 7-8 cm diameter tube
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Roll widths: 75 cm to 3 meters
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Length: 100 meters or more
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Suitable for manual and machine fabric spreading
2. Folded Fabric Rolls
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Common in retail stores
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Fabric is folded onto a flat board (1-2 cm thick)
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Width: 70-80 cm
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Not suitable for machine spreading
3. Tubular Knitted Fabric Rolls
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Used for T-shirt and polo shirt fabrics
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Packaged in tubular form
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Compatible with fabric spreading machines
4. Hanging Fabric Rolls
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Ideal for velvet and plush fabrics
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Stored in hanging racks to preserve texture and prevent creasing
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Requires manual spreading
5. Folded Fabric Scuttled Rolls
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Used for plaid and knitted fabrics
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Prevents fabric distortion
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Involves crosswise folding
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Difficult to handle with automated spreading machines
